Archive for 2011

Chemical Peels 101, Chapter 3

Having been in the practice of dermatology for over 30 years, I realized that there was a void in the industry for an effective chemical peel designed to lighten, brighten and firm the skin with minimal side effects and downtime. The cosmeceutical industry had several peels on the market that addressed sun damage and produced improvement, but they were often associated with pain and side effects. The mild alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxyl acid peels available were less painful, with no downtime; but their results were not very dramatic. Chemical peels with strong, caustic acids, like high concentrations of trichloracetic acid and phenol, caused significant tissue destruction, downtime, risks and variable outcomes. The challenge to me was to create an entirely new type of peel that treated discoloration and sun damage with significant results, minimal downtime, and few side effects. I created the Poly-Organic Brightening Peel.

Poly-Organic Brightening Peel

Unlike the traditional exfoliating peels, Rx Systems PF’s Poly-Organic Brightening Peel uses a unique blend of safe, but effective, organic acids to cause natural chemical exfoliation of the stratum corneum and epidermis. The peel contains antioxidants and skin lightening and brightening ingredients, in addition to the combination of exfoliative and reparative organic acids (organic compounds are naturally occurring molecules containing carbon but may have other elements like hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen). The synergist effect of these ingredients creates a comprehensive reparative and rejuvenating chemical peel, which can be combined with other cosmeceutical products and treatments. This special formulation includes a unique, innovative blend of peeling agents:

  • alpha-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid)
  • beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid)
  • dicarboxylic acid (azelaic acid)
  • an aromatic organic molecule (resorcinol)
  • hydroxyl-pyrone (kojic acid)

It can be combined with L-Ascorbic Acid or Retinoic Acid (physicians only) to individualize the benefits for certain patients.

While results are predictable and noticeable after just one 20-minute Poly-Organic Brightening Peel, more dramatic, optimum results are seen after a series of peels. The number of treatments needed by a patient depends upon the problem being addressed, but usually ranges from three to six treatments spaced two to four weeks apart. Other products and treatments can be used in conjunction with the peel, depending on the skin problems being treated.

Maintaining Peel Results

The changes that occur in the epidermis following a chemical peel last for years. In order to maintain the results, it is critical to avoid sun damage. As with any treatment, it is always important to protect the skin from harmful UV rays after the peel, as this can aggravate and cause damage to the skin. It is recommended that peel recipients use an SPF 30 or higher.

The patient’s skin type, skin care before and after the peel, the doctor's level of experience, and the patient’s lifestyle after the procedure can also affect the results. Some types of skin problems respond better to chemical peeling than others. People with lighter skin who limit their sun exposure after the procedure tend to have better results than those with darker skin and those who continue to spend lots of time in the sun.


Options for skin resurfacing

Chemical peels, dermabrasion, and laser resurfacing are the most commonly used techniques for improving the texture and appearance of the skin. Although these techniques use different methods, they have basically the same effect on the skin –they destroy and remove the upper layers of skin to allow for skin regrowth.

No one technique is necessarily better than the others. When done by an experienced surgeon, laser resurfacing may be slightly more precise than chemical peeling or dermabrasion. But the choice of technique is based on the site the patient wants to treat, the patient’s skin type and condition, the doctor's experience, the patient’s preferences and other factors. Some people may get the best results using a combination of techniques.

Makeup Down Under

Makeup Down Under

Chemical Peels 101, Continued

Chemical skin peels can improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They work by removing the outermost layers of the skin damaged by sun exposure, age, and skin conditions to allow smooth, healthy new skin underneath to grow. Skin peels may be superficial (mild), medium or deep.

The ideal candidate for chemical peels is someone who:

  • Is in good physical health
  • Is psychologically stable
  • Understands the procedure
  • Does not smoke
  • Wants to look younger and more refreshed
  • Is unhappy with the appearance of wrinkles or brown spots, especially around the mouth or eyes
  • Is free of active skin infections, including most kinds of acne
  • Is informed about the appropriate skin tone for the type of peel used
  • Is not taking Accutane or has not taken it for the previous 18 months.
  • Is free from large or unusual scar formations, such as keloids
  • Is realistic in his/her expectations
  • Is willing to accept the limitations involved in the healing process

Peel Side Effects and Risks -

Significant complications with chemical peels are infrequent, but potential complications include:

  • Scarring
  • Infection
  • Temporary or permanent changes in skin tone or uneven tone
  • Hyperpigmentation (a darkening of the skin, treatable in most cases with current bleaching techniques)
  • Hypopigmentation (a lightening of the skin, more difficult to treat)
  • Cold sore breakouts in patients who have a history of recurring blisters and cold sores, like herpes and shingles (an anti-viral medication before the procedure can help prevent this)
  • Risks for patients with a family history of heart disease

A chemical peel (except for a superficial peel) may not be done if a patient has:

  • Recently used isotretinoin (a drug used to treat acne)
  • Had recent facial surgery or facial radiation therapy. This can make regrowth of the skin more difficult
  • An active herpes infection affecting the area to be treated
  • An impaired immune system. This can delay healing and increase the risk of infection and skin color changes after the peel
  • Known allergies to certain medicines

Patients can help minimize certain risks by following the advice and instructions of their doctor, both before and after the chemical peel. Pre-existing conditions may also put a patient at risk. Patients who have a history of heart disease or herpes, have a tendency to form large or unusual scars, or who have undergone considerable amounts of radiation or facial x-rays should consult their doctor before having a chemical peel.

Managing Expectations -

Some types of skin problems respond better to chemical peeling than others. People with lighter skin who limit their sun exposure after the procedure tend to have better results than those with darker skin and those who continue to spend lots of time in the sun. Changes in the color and texture of the skin caused by aging and sun exposure may continue to develop after a chemical peel. Chemical peels are not a permanent solution for these problems.

Chemical peels are designed to wound and remove the upper layers of the skin. Patients will need to prepare themselves for how their skin will look immediately after the peel and throughout the healing process. Patients will also need to be prepared to use cosmetics to blend skin tones between treated and untreated areas, such as between the face and jaw line.

During the early healing period after a chemical peel (before the skin has finished peeling), patients will need to avoid sun exposure. After the early healing period has passed, patients will need to wear sunscreen every day and limit sun exposure as much as possible. New skin is more susceptible to damage and discoloration from sunlight.

Even with realistic expectations, patients may not see results for several weeks or months after a chemical peel.

Chemical Peels 101

Chemical skin peels can improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They work by removing the outermost layers of the skin damaged by sun exposure, age, and skin conditions to allow smooth, healthy new skin underneath to grow. Skin peels may be superficial (mild), medium or deep.

The ideal candidate for chemical peels is someone who:

  • Is in good physical health
  • Is psychologically stable
  • Understands the procedure
  • Does not smoke
  • Wants to look younger and more refreshed
  • Is unhappy with the appearance of wrinkles or brown spots, especially around the mouth or eyes
  • Is free of active skin infections, including most kinds of acne
  • Is informed about the appropriate skin tone for the type of peel used
  • Is not taking Accutane or has not taken it for the previous 18 months.
  • Is free from large or unusual scar formations, such as keloids
  • Is realistic in his/her expectations
  • Is willing to accept the limitations involved in the healing process

Peel Side Effects and Risks

Significant complications with chemical peels are infrequent, but potential complications include:

  • Scarring
  • Infection
  • Temporary or permanent changes in skin tone or uneven tone
  • Hyperpigmentation (a darkening of the skin, treatable in most cases with current bleaching techniques)
  • Hypopigmentation (a lightening of the skin, more difficult to treat)
  • Cold sore breakouts in patients who have a history of recurring blisters and cold sores, like herpes and shingles (an anti-viral medication before the procedure can help prevent this)
  • Risks for patients with a family history of heart disease

A chemical peel (except for a superficial peel) may not be done if a patient has:

  • Recently used isotretinoin (a drug used to treat acne)
  • Had recent facial surgery or facial radiation therapy. This can make regrowth of the skin more difficult
  • An active herpes infection affecting the area to be treated
  • An impaired immune system. This can delay healing and increase the risk of infection and skin color changes after the peel
  • Known allergies to certain medicines


Patients can help minimize certain risks by following the advice and instructions of their doctor, both before and after the chemical peel. Pre-existing conditions may also put a patient at risk. Patients who have a history of heart disease or herpes, have a tendency to form large or unusual scars or have undergone considerable amounts of radiation or facial x-rays should consult their doctor before having a chemical peel.

Managing Expectations

Some types of skin problems respond better to chemical peeling than others. People with lighter skin who limit their sun exposure after the procedure tend to have better results than those with darker skin and those who continue to spend lots of time in the sun. Changes in the color and texture of the skin caused by aging and sun exposure may continue to develop after a chemical peel. Chemical peels are not a permanent solution for these problems.

Chemical peels are designed to wound and remove the upper layers of the skin. Patients will need to prepare themselves for how their skin will look immediately after the peel and throughout the healing process. Patients will also need to be prepared to use cosmetics to blend skin tones between treated and untreated areas, such as between the face and jaw line.

During the early healing period after a chemical peel (before the skin has finished peeling), patients will need to avoid sun exposure. After the early healing period has passed, patients will need to wear sunscreen every day and limit sun exposure as much as possible. New skin is more susceptible to damage and discoloration from sunlight.

Even with realistic expectations, patients may not see results for several weeks or months after a chemical peel.